Writer

The time I biked the Road to Hana. With luggage.

By Katherine Nichols

Though I’ve visited and worked and run on Maui dozens of times, I decided to take a different approach to a travel writing assignment and bike to Hana rather than drive.

It started the night before with a stay at the incredibly charming Paia Inn, which has its own secret pathway to a stunning, empty beach.

I rented a bike and hit the health food store for water and snacks. Preparation is key, because the ride is hot, hilly, and isolated — with no way to refuel for about 40 miles.

I can think of more fun ways to spend time on Maui. Like what I did the previous weekend on a whirlwind assignment for People Magazine, where I visited the quaint, earthy-yet-upscale surf yoga town of Paia for a story on Owen Wilson. It used to be kind of under cover, but when bumper-to-bumper traffic slows your arrival and celebrities have caught on, it’s pretty clear the secret is out.

Some of my favorites:

Paia Inn: Noted above…. Only five rooms in the main building, and not exactly budget, but so quaint and cozy that you will never want to leave. Bonus: The private entrance to the beach is stocked with body boards, fins, and other ocean toys.

Paia’s charm comes not only from its friendly residents, but from its outdoorsy feel, funky boutiques, and interesting art galleries. Unique shopping, an impressive array of tasty restaurants, and a well-stocked health food store make it a great place to set up camp for a weekend of triathlon training.

At 6:30 the next morning, I was on my way — with a smile and enough weight on my back to turn a challenging ride into an epic day. What could be so bad about 41 miles? Turns out there isn’t a single flat section on this road. It also turns out that I’m a terrible packer, so the massive backpack was sliding so much to the side that it nearly pulled me off my bike. Not great any time. Horrible on 15% grades.

In my backpack:

  • 1 long sleeve Lululemon shirt and tights for sun protection
  • surf shorts
  • teeny bikini
  • running shoes
  • short & shirt for running
  • strapless dinner dress, a hand-me-over from RR. Obviously, it doubles as beach/pool dress, because that’s how she rolls.
  • flip flops (slippers)
  • Boston Marathon windbreaker, to make me feel less guilty about buying it
  • socks, underwear, Body Glide, sunscreen, lip gloss (my only makeup!)

Not much for a weekend away, but it amounted to nearly 30 pounds (note: on a bike, this is really dumb).

Sustenance for ride:

  • 1 gallon of water in bottles and Camelbak
  • 1 Power Bar
  • 1 package of Clif Shot Bloks
  •  2 bananas
  •  pure coconut water for electrolytes

 Between my legs (no…not like that):

  • Scott road bike with 11/27 gearing — much needed for the hills

The road was gorgeous, narrow, challenging, and a bit treacherous in places — especially in the shady areas with sharp turns, where moss, rain, and oil created a mix that screamed: go slowly (and enjoy the scenery)!

The closer I moved to Hana, the more my surroundings felt like vintage Hawaii, covered with hala trees and red ti plants. Oh, and Chinese food — only today!

Once in Hana, I enjoyed getting back on a horse in the magnificent surroundings.

But on the way back, I asked the laundry truck to carry my stupid backpack, while I wore a lovely day pack filled only with my essentials (top picture!).

More fun stories about this trip coming in other posts, including the climb to the summit of Haleakala…